May – June, 2003

We chose to spend our holiday cycling the Trans Pennine Trail for three main reasons:

• we wanted to see more of Liverpool, which we’d visited the previous November for the first time, for a CTC / CCN conference, and been very impressed with;
• Liverpool, on the TPT, is easy of access by train from Norwich, being the other end of the Central Trains route and not necessitating changing trains;
• The TPT is a fairly new route (much of it still interim) and the leaflet advertising it had some stunning views.

At the planning stage we sent away for the pack containing the three maps covering the TPT and a very handy little book, this being the official visitor guide and accommodation list (£19.75 including p&p from the TPT Office, Barnsley Metropolitan Council, Kendray Street, Barnsley S70 2TN). All the B&B accommodation we used came from this book. In addition, as back-up, I obtained all the relevant OS maps and highlighted the route on them. This turned out to be a very wise thing to do, necessary of course to find some of our accommodation addresses which were not directly on the route.

The first indication of how hard the TPT would be came when two cyclists got on our train at Manchester and sat with us in the cycle compartment. They were returning home to the Wirral after cycling the route from its start at Southport. They informed us that about 80% of it was off-road, on disused railway lines, bridleways and canal / river towpaths. One of the cyclists had a splendid Giant bike with suspension, but the other was suffering from a sore neck after only 4 days on the Trail. The second indication was the weather. We’d already had several days of very heavy storms and at that time there was no prospect of any improvement.

Having spent an enjoyable time at Liverpool youth hostel on our previous visit we stayed there again, for three nights. We had our own en suite room, with cooking facilities if we wanted to do our own meals, but in fact excellent meals were served in the restaurant downstairs. Breakfast was included in the overnight charge, while three course evening meals were priced at £5.10 so very economical. The only snag about our room was that it was in the front of the building, overlooking a main dual carriageway, therefore very noisy.

The YH is also very conveniently placed within walking distance of the Waterfront and the Albert Dock. We walked out that first evening in the sun. We even saw a large group of wet-suited swimmers pounding up and down the Albert Dock, quite a distance.

The sun was out next morning too when we took the Metro (so cheap and convenient) to Southport to see the start of the Trail, with its tall column with the TPT logo on top, its fish sculpture and its comprehensive information boards. None of the locals could fail to know about the Trail. One thing that helped enormously on our ride was that it was generally well signed with large blue signs, quite conspicuous across a road junction for example. Also, when we were in doubt, all the locals we asked knew about the Trail and could direct us – more than can be said about the majority of Norwich citizens and Route 1 of the NCN which passes through it.

On our second day in Liverpool we took our bikes across on the ferry, hoping to repeat the lovely ride around the coastline of the Wirral (NCN Route 56) which we’d done in November. But by the time we arrived there it was pouring with rain so we spent time only at the Historic Warships museum, most interesting with several ships one could explore. Our YHA cards gave us the bonus of half-price admission.

On our third day we were ready to start our long ride, described in diary form below:

Saturday, 17 May

On leaving the YH we set off for the nearest point of the route ‘loop’ that we could see marked on the map – the Merseyside Cycling Campaign’s cycle map of Liverpool, given out in the pre-conference pack in November proved invaluable here. Following the waymarked route – through two parks and zigzagging through the back streets – eventually we ascended a bank onto the TPT proper, the Liverpool Loop Line disused railway. As we got there, there were two cyclists just finishing off mending a puncture. ‘Hope you’ve got plenty of patches’, they called out to us as they rode off. Oh dear, this didn’t sound very encouraging.

Shortly we passed the Jaguar motor works at Halewood, then found a pub lunch in Hale. Our route continued along the Mersey, through Pickering’s Pasture Country Park and Nature Reserve. Just beyond we found the most amazing contraption to negotiate a steep hill – virtually a cliff face. This was a zigzag of four flights each of eleven wide steps. Easy enough to manage except that each flight actually had a pinch point half way up it.

We’d already noted that the local authority in this part of the country seemed very keen on locating pinch points at every possible excuse along the way. To make matters worse for us touring cyclists with wide, heavy loads (2 panniers each fore and aft) they were very narrow pinch points, some with swing gates inside a railed area, and with all the rain we were having, most were ankle deep in water. In fact, on that first day we negotiated 29 pinch points, most of which we had to struggle with, plus the four on the steps. No wonder we arrived at our night’s destination pretty exhausted.

Beyond the Runcorn – Widnes Mersey Bridge, the shape of which reminded me of a looper caterpillar, we got onto the towpath of St Helen’s Canal, then the Manchester Ship Canal, very wide and impressive. Then we were on another disused railway line to our farmhouse B&B at Little Bollington on the western outskirts of Altrincham. We tried to find farms for accommodation as they tend to be sympathetic and helpful to cyclists arriving wet through and with muddy feet. Although that is the state we arrived in here, we were not offered any drying facilities (even youth hostels are more helpful in this respect). However, we had time to dry out for we were here two nights. 

Route: mainly rough track, wet and muddy. Ride continually interrupted by far too narrow pinch points. Arrived pretty exhausted.

Sunday, 18 May

We had a day off from cycling as we wanted to go to Salford Quays to the Lowry art gallery. First our hosts at the farm arranged for a taxi to take us to Altrincham station. After struggling to sort out how to get tickets from the machine, we took the Metro train signed ‘Piccadilly’. We had to change at Cornbrook for an ‘Eccles’ train.

The trains are only two coaches long, hinged rather like those on the Docklands Light Railway in London. They rattled along, had great acceleration but quite a pronounced yawing movement. We were travelling along on a high embankment on the Eccles train when it suddenly turned a bend, crossed a canal and did a sharp descent past the windows of some buildings to land up in the road among motor vehicles – it had metamorphosed into a tram! What an odd experience, one which for me was a repeat of something similar in Chur, Switzerland. We got off at Salford Quays, at a crossroads.

Salford Quays was a revelation! Former docks joined up to the Manchester Ship Canal, bridges, pedestrian areas, wonderful buildings. We walked along to The Lowry as it’s called, where we spent a couple of hours looking at the man’s wonderful paintings and drawings, many of them everyday scenes of people, dogs (usually a dog featured, occasionally a cat) and industry. We had coffee at the gallery, then walked some more, over a pedestrian / cycle bridge, to discover the magnificent Imperial War Museum North.

The first thing we did here, since it was just by the entrance, was to ascend in the lift to the viewing platform where we had fine views of the city. Down in the main museum we had periodic projection of three different presentations, not in any special room but all around on all the walls. One could only look about one in wonder, also at the displays which dealt mainly with the two world wars. Wonderful museums with plenty of people visiting. After a meal at the War Museum we walked back to catch the Metro, while looking about us in wonder at all the marvellous buildings and precincts. Never seen anything like it before! We returned to the farm B&B at Little Bollington by the same way as our outward journey. 

Monday, 19 May

It was time to resume our ride. It turned out to be a very hard day, what with rough track, very narrow pinch points – 30 of them, one up on our previous day’s ride – at some of which we had to remove panniers to get through, ankle deep water at such points, mud deep enough to drown in at motorway underpasses, carpets of broken glass under bridges, and a high, very permanent looking metal fence blocking our way. We could see the path continuing on the other side of the fence but the owners of the business bordering it evidently did not like the idea of cyclists passing at the back of its premises. The only way out was up a narrow alleyway full of litter and water. It turned out to be Parcelforce, in the Stockport area. I wonder if the authorities know about this blockage? Added to all this was the rain, of course – very heavy showers – plus the fact that the day’s ride turned out to be almost twice as far as we’d calculated from the map (29 instead of 15 miles).

Today’s ride seemed to have little to commend it, passing under numerous motorways and bridges, much of the time following the course of the River Mersey through a corridor of undeveloped land through Greater Manchester. We left the Trail to find our B&B, up a very steep and busy road to Werneth Low, south of Hyde. This was another farmhouse, but we had a very small room in which to dry our, once again, wringing wet clothes and baggage. The rather odd farmer did however take my wet jacket and mitts, returning them dry the next morning. Another redeeming factor was the lovely evening meal served up, as requested. We sat with a charming couple of American women, mother and daughter, for this meal and next morning’s breakfast. There were also numerous dogs and cats about, including two beautiful white pedigree dogs which had won awards at Crufts. 

Route and signage: many problems, detailed above. Signage generally good but inadequate through Stockport. Maybe some signs had gone ‘missing’; we managed to follow the route from the map plus the toucan crossings, obviously intended for cyclists so probably the way we were to go.

Tuesday, 20 May

After leaving the farm at Werneth Low we climbed up to the nearby viewpoint. We were now getting into the Pennines. The terrain was so steep we had to walk down the hill to the main road. The route followed the main road for a short distance, then went off through a place called Broadbottom. We had a wonderful pub lunch at Hadfield (Bob ordered a pork chop and two large ones appeared, one of which came in for a later picnic), by which time we were again quite wet. We then had to be directed by locals to the TPT which here gets onto a disused railway, the Longdendale Trail. This was lovely, a good surface and picturesque, following a line of reservoirs. It was also well signed with occasional information boards telling the history of the line and stations. We crossed the Pennine Way Long Distance Footpath and continued on until we came to the mouth of a former railway tunnel.

At this point our pleasure was shattered! The tunnel was not available to cyclists but was blocked off with locked gates and accumulated rubbish. (We have heard that there is a possibility of its being restored and reopened, and it would certainly overcome the strenuous stretch we were about to negotiate, but would I like to cycle through a 3 mile long tunnel where I couldn’t see light at the other end? The possibility of whom or what one might find lurking in the darkness doesn’t sound too inviting.)

So we had to follow the Trail up the steep hillside with its large boulders and inevitable pinch points. In fact it was so steep that two of us needed to move each heavily laden bike in turn, with one at the handlebars and one pushing from behind. The task was not made easier by our having to cross the A628, with nose to tail heavy lorries, three times. All this in the inevitable pelting rain. In fact, I was wet through to my vest. After our third crossing of the road we found ourselves on a minor road - what bliss!

After a further push up to the highest point on the TPT, 435m, it was downhill all the way. Down to Dunford Bridge, the other end of the tunnel, and the continuation of the railway, now called the Upper Don Trail. As with the previous section, this was a delight to cycle, even if it was very wet and muddy. We passed over the main road again, this time by a very fine Millennium bridge. We left the trail here to descend the Don valley to Millhouse Green, the location of our next B&B.

Carr House took a while to find. It was a mile or so out of the village, up a very steep hill, but was worth the effort. We were housed in a new, purpose built two-storey outhouse. We were on the first floor and were its first residents. There were a few teething problems – we had no hot water, for example, and had to boil kettles, and the toilet door had not arrived yet so we had a curtain – but there was plenty of space and we had a very efficient fire to dry our wet things, while our bikes were housed in the room next door. It was a good place, with friendly and helpful owners. 

Route and signage: signage could be improved in Hadfield where we had to ask directions; route over Woodhead Pass very rough, steep and dangerous, especially in bad weather with heavily laden bikes. We think this should be emphasised on the map; a woman travelling alone, for example, would have found it very daunting.

Wednesday, 21 May

A rest day – we needed it! Weather still wet. We cycled into nearby Penistone for shopping, then spent a restful afternoon back at Carr House. 

Mileage: 5 Time taken: 58min Average speed: 5.5mph Max speed: 32mph

Thursday, 22 May

Another very hard day, due to terrain not distance. We continued along the Dove Valley Trail and were doing fine until we reached Silkstone Common. Here contractors were repairing a bridge in a cutting and we were diverted up onto the embankment, a picturesque path among trees. Then we reached the road, but the track continuing on was very definitely CLOSED! A big sign informed us so, but there was no indication as to a diversion. If this had been a road for motorists they would have been diverted around the closure until back on their route – possibly this is a legal requirement. But mere cyclists don’t have the benefit of this consideration and are left to get on with it as best they can. Indeed, if they are relying solely on the TPT route maps they could find themselves in quite a dodgy situation. We were fortunate in having OS map backup so took ourselves off along the road for a few miles until we could get back on the Trail further on. We crossed the M1 and the A633, passed under other trunk roads (not very pleasant, mainly due to the aftermath of ‘yob’ activity – a burnt out car in one case), passed through the Old Moor Wetland Nature Reserve and got onto a very rough farm track – deep, water and rubble-filled holes, between Bolton upon Dearne and Harlington. Surely this was not part of the TPT? But it was as given on the map. Then Bob came off his bike on a slippery wooden bridge and badly grazed an arm and a leg.

The track improved as we got nearer to The Earth Centre at Conisbrough, our destination for the night. But where was the Earth Centre? It was not marked from the Trail; do we need to go round by the main road? In spite of being told by a doggie walker that we would, I was pretty sure that it could be accessed from the Trail. Eventually we found our way in (sign needed here) but were then immediately reprimanded by a member of staff for cycling on the site, while a teacher with a group of pupils told us not to ‘run over the children’. After all we’d been through this did not sound like an auspicious stay. Eventually we were instructed to leave our bikes along with all the hire bikes in a large shed on the site, then take a 5 minute walk to the accommodation block. We managed to persuade them that it would be far easier to remove our baggage at the door of the block, then take the bikes back to the shed – as long as we walked with them!

We arrived at the accommodation block just before 5pm when the nearby on-site restaurant closed. Now wouldn’t you think that with 42 double rooms here, the restaurant could stay open till 6pm at least? Well, we were given instructions on how to get to the nearest fish and chip shop, ‘only a 5 minute walk away’ in Conisbrough. After a very hilly 15 – 20 mins walk, during which Bob who was exhausted had to sit on a wayside seat, we brought back our supper to eat in our room. At least it was a very nice en suite room, with tea making facilities and a TV that worked, so we could watch the Chelsea Flower Show.

The day had started off wet and very windy but then the rain eased, while the wind which was behind us assisted our passage. Milder than previously. Only 24 pinch points today. 

Mileage: 26 Time on the move: 4 hours Average speed: 6.5mph Maximum speed: 29mph

Friday, 23 May

What a strange place the Earth Centre is! The paths are bordered with odd wooden posts, which start talking to you as you approach. We had an excellent breakfast in the restaurant; getting there early meant we didn’t get held up by a large school party also accommodated on the site.

Shortly after setting off on our Trail, we turned a corner to see a most impressive viaduct (disused railway). Then we got onto the riverside path of the River Don, very pretty, including passing under the A1 road viaduct. Made me think of the times we’d travelled by car on this stretch, never thinking we’d ever be cycling underneath. What progress! We also had several level crossings to negotiate, this area being very well supplied with railways. After passing through the picturesque riverside village of Thorpe in Balne we got onto the towpath of the New Junction Canal. A wonderful smooth surface, but we met no other users.

Our overnight stay was in a pub at Carlton, on the main road but we had a very comfortable ground floor room with our own entrance round the back, while our bikes were accommodated in the laundry room next to ours. This was certainly our most comfortable room so far on this trip, and I took the opportunity of doing our washing. Unfortunately the pub didn’t serve evening meals and we were directed to the next village, Camblesforth, where we were told we would find a pub serving excellent meals. We found it eventually, but it was one mile away, up a very busy road (A1041), and we were already pretty tired (and hungry!) when we set off. We wished we’d got the bikes out again, but were in a much happier frame of mind on the return trip. On the walk we passed Drax power station – amazing that a small village should be dominated by such a famous landmark; it featured in one of my Open University Science courses. There is also a Drax (Dracula’s?) Castle. There were several similar power stations dotted around the landscape here, probably fuelled by the coalfields nearby. 

Mileage: 28 Time on the move: 3.5 hours Average speed: 8mph Maximum speed: 21mph Time of arrival: 4.30pm. Fewer pinch points, a much easier day.

Saturday, 24 May

After our pub breakfast, we called at the post office to send a package home containing items no longer required – maps and booklets. Also bought supplies for the day. We set off along the Trail towards Selby, passing round the periphery of an airfield where gliders were taking off and landing. Selby is a traffic congested town. We had morning coffee in the railway café there before going to look at the abbey.

Then we set off towards York, alongside the river and eventually on the famed Selby – York railway path. It certainly came up to our expectations – good smooth surface, a planet trail and other sculptures. Not too many people cycling on it though. The cycle-friendly approaches to York also impressed us, including the racecourse where the CTC’s annual York Rally is held. We were also pleased to see the imaginative use to which a space under a road had been put. It featured several smooth humps and bumps for use by the city’s skateboarders and BMX riders, while the walls were covered with their creative artwork (paintings). Now why hasn’t this idea been copied elsewhere?

We stayed on the Trail alongside the river and eventually found the youth hostel where we were booked in for two nights. We had our own room here, with washing facilities but had to share the toilets and showers. We had an excellent evening meal here in the restaurant overlooking the ‘bird garden’, which featured several different kinds of bird feeder and nesting box. The squirrels were making good use of these, as well as various types of bird. Tired, we went to bed early. Weather much improved, only a few heavy rain spots. 

Mileage: 27.5 Time on the move: 3.5 hours Average speed: 8mph Maximum speed: 16mph Time of arrival: 3.45pm

Sunday, 25 May

A rest day in York. Paul Osborne, Sustrans’ officer for Safer and Healthier Journeys to School, had previously sent us a cycle map of the city on which he’d marked some notable cycle-friendly features he thought we should see. So our first sortie was to look at the new ‘magic roundabout’, a benchmarking scheme to improve cyclist safety and ease of passage at a major road roundabout. We stood watching for some minutes, seeing how the division of cycle lanes worked for the different junctions. We wondered if it was safer than previously and were informed later that indeed the accident rate had decreased since the scheme was installed. (Maybe we could do with similar on Norwich’s ring road roundabouts.)

Next we went to see the new Millennium cycle / pedestrian bridge over the river, which was very impressive. Then we called on Paul, Anna and family for coffee, as arranged. While we were with them Paul marked on the map some shops we needed, and soon we were off, to buy food and, in my case, new shoes. With all the rough walking we’d done on this trip I’d worn out my trainers, with a hole in the heel of one which meant that with all the water we’d had I had permanently wet feet. So it was into JJB for a new pair, leaving my old ones with them to be discarded. How lovely to have nice dry feet again, though by now the weather had improved somewhat.

So we spent the day mooching about the city, looking and taking photos. On our return to the YH we had an evening meal in the restaurant, then met John and Hilary Whitlam, like us members of the former Norwich YHA Local Group, just coming out of one of the other family rooms. So we exchanged news of other members and their activities. 

Bank Holiday Monday, 26 May

We had breakfast with John and Hilary in the dining room overlooking the bird garden. On leaving the YH we took Route 65, part of the TPT, along the river, back the way we had come. There were many more cyclists on the route this time, including a group possibly 30 strong on the riverside path in York. The York – Selby railway path was also much busier. In the Selby area we had problems finding a pub lunch, so stopped at a fish and chip shop on the outskirts of town, eating our meal standing on the pavement. While there we were joined by a group of cyclists arriving intermittently. They were from London on a tour doing 150 miles per day, with a back-up vehicle carrying all their baggage. Their bikes had very narrow tyres – racing rather than touring ones.

We didn’t go through Selby this time but continued along the north bank of the River Ouse. As we passed through the village of Hemingbrough we saw there was an event on at the church. Never ones to look a gift horse cup of tea in the mouth, we stopped to investigate. It was a craft fair and plant sale in aid of church funds. There were even helicopter flights @ £10 for 20 minutes. We took it in turns to go into the church to see what was there and have tea and lovely pieces of lemon cake. I went in first. Seeing a selection of Whitby jet earrings on a stall and taking a while to choose a pair (I’d forgotten to take any on holiday with us), I suggested to the inquisitive elderly husband of the stall holder that he go outside and chat with Bob about his desires to get back on a bike (after many years) and go off on a tour like ours. I wonder if he ever did follow our example? We come across many aspiring returnees to cycling in their later years.

We found our next B&B, the Minster View Hotel, right opposite the church (not the minster) in Howden. Our room was directly facing it, very picturesque but rather disturbing as the church clock sounded off every 15 minutes throughout the day and night. Didn’t notice it though – we generally slept very well on this trip. 

Mileage: 28 Time on the move: 3.5hrs Average speed: 8mph Maximum speed: 16mph Time of arrival: 4.25pm

Tuesday, 27 May

The ‘hotel’ was in fact an inn, and considerably more tatty than our previous billets. However, its status was considerably enhanced by the excellent breakfast we were served. There was no one else in the building but the cook, an 80-year-old local lady who was the only one available at such an early hour to feed us and take our payment. We wondered how they’d manage when she decided to retire.

We had an easy ride from Howden to North Ferriby. The weather was much improved and the going good. We met two separate couples of touring cyclists, loaded up with panniers like us – the first we’d met since Liverpool. We called out to them, but they didn’t want to talk to us! I wondered if they’d just come off the ferry at Hull and their English was not up to having conversations. We had an excellent lunch at the Triton pub at Brantingham – recommended! The last section of our route was alongside the A63, very noisy. We found our B&B, an excellent place with plenty of hot water. We had baths and did washing, which the hot night dried off well. The hostess, Margaret, told us she was a graduate of the UEA and once worked for May and Baker, Norwich. 

Mileage: 23 Time on the move: 2hrs 45mins Average speed: 8mph Maximum speed: 24mph Time of arrival: 3.15pm

Wednesday, 28 May (our wedding anniversary)

We started off the day with a puncture, the first one of the tour. When Bob went to get the bikes out of the garage my front tyre was flat. He quickly changed the inner tube – the pinhole puncture to be mended at our next B&B.

Back on the TPT, one and a half miles into our day’s ride, we came across a blockage, two strongly padlocked gates and a stile. Admittedly we were warned – Restrictive barrier, cycles must be lifted – printed on the route map. But why? Why not leave the smaller (pedestrian) gate unlocked, especially as there were no other barriers preventing motorcycles (if that’s what they were afraid of) from entering this stretch of path from either end? Pedestrians of course could climb over the stile, and this is what we had to do with our bikes, once we’d removed all eight pannier bags and lifted them over. This is another example we came across of anti-cyclist prejudice; others were notices saying, Cyclists give way to pedestrians, Cyclists give way to horses, Cyclists give way to farm vehicles, and of course cyclists have to give way to motor vehicles everywhere. So who has to give way to cyclists? Maybe this is one reason why it is so difficult to get people back onto their bikes, an attitude problem where cyclists are considered the lowest of the low.

So after a delay of about 20 minutes – yes, it takes a while re-attaching all those panniers, especially the front ones – we were on our way again along a rough track beside the Humber, heading towards the Bridge. After some confusion trying to find our way up onto the Bridge, we eventually made it onto the shared pedestrian – cycle way to cross over the Humber and into Lincolnshire. We were now finished with the TPT (which passes through Hull and on to the North Sea at Hornsea) and on Route 1 of the National Cycle Network. We were now on familiar territory, having cycled this route six years previously.

We followed the Route 1 signs through Barton-on-Humber, where previously Bob had had a breakdown and had emergency repairs at a bike shop on a Sunday morning. Fortunately, all was well this time. We passed a salesroom (former chapel) with an amazing selection of bikes, trikes and accessories outside, being the stock from businesses gone into liquidation. Did we want a Burley D’Lite or a trailer-bike? The latter would be handy especially as they promised to deliver ‘anywhere in the UK’. We decided at this stage of our tour we couldn’t afford it so passed on through Barton and into the countryside.

We had our OS maps in use now, so avoided a previously experienced rough track on Route 1 and took a parallel road. Hardly any traffic, only where we crossed B roads, but the roads were pretty hilly and we had some walking to do with our heavy loads. Eventually we arrived at Prospect Farm, Brigsley, where we’d stayed on our previous ride. It was a bit out of our way but worth the diversion – it was lovely; once again absolute luxury. We were also given a small bottle of white wine to celebrate our anniversary. How thoughtful! 

Mileage: 38 Time on the move: 5hrs Average speed: 7.4mph Maximum speed: 28.5mph Time of arrival: 6.15pm

Thursday, 29 May

A very hot day! We weren’t prepared for this and got very sun burnt.

After lots of talking, during which we discovered that the B&B business was now confined to taking guests who’d stayed previously while the self-catering chalets and caravans had been extended, we left Prospect Farm, Brigsley. We retraced our ride by a mile or so, climbing up gradually until we got to East Ravendale, where we turned off southwards. We were no longer on Route 1 as we didn’t want to go to Lincoln but to return home by a more direct route. Amazingly, although we were in the heart of the Lincolnshire Wolds, we were high up and on a relatively level road with lovely views on all sides. We were on what was called on the OS map Bluestone Heath Road, which seemed to go on for miles. We wondered what the name signified.

We turned off westwards to Donington on Bain as a PH was marked on the map, which could mean lunch. We were in luck. Not only did this pretty little village have a shop selling all sorts of foodstuff, but also a pub serving meals. And since this was Thursday it was cheap meals for pensioners day. The pub was full of elderly people munching away so we sat outside in the garden for our meal, a bargain at £2.50 for two excellent courses. Another couple joined us in the garden, a Dutchman with his English wife who lived a few miles away and came here regularly to partake of the bargain lunches.

We continued on our way, cycling parallel to the River Bain until reaching Baumber where the man at the garage directed us to our next B&B, at Baumber Park Farm. This was a lovely place, a working farm with a large old farmhouse, and a beautiful garden which we were permitted to wander in. We had the biggest room of the whole holiday, with a lovely view to the south east. I copied down some notes on the place from the visitors’ folder: 

Mileage: 24.5 Time on the move: 3hrs 17min Average speed: 7.5mph Maximum speed: 32mph Time of arrival: 4pm

Friday, 30 May

Cycling in north Lincs is lovely! After an excellent breakfast in company with another couple, not cyclists unfortunately, we left and made our way south to Woodhall Spa. Here we did shopping, including the now much needed sunscreen, had coffee in a china shop, viewed the Dambusters’ memorial (which we saw and photographed in 1990), and got back onto Route 1 of the NCN.

This was a lovely quiet road alongside the River Witham. We had a lunch in a PH at Tattershall Bridge. At Anton’s Gowt, right by a pub, we got onto a newly completed section of cycle / walk way, a former railway line beside the River Witham. This took us right into the heart of Boston. We stopped for an ice cream at a ships’ chandlers by the busy boatyard. We got through busy Boston town centre by following the blue Route 1 signs. On the south side of the town we stopped to ask a man working on his front hedge if we were on the right road. Yes we were but got into conversation. Then another cyclist joined us, coming in the opposite direction. This young man was Belgian, doing the whole North Sea Cycle Route. He was loaded up with camping gear, expecting to take two months to complete the whole ride. We were standing there talking for some time and I was beginning to get worried. The sun appeared to be getting low and we still had several miles to go before reaching our next B&B.

We left the two men talking and continued on our way, a curving but very pleasant road south to Fosdyke, where we were briefly on the A17 to cross the River Welland. Almost immediately we turned off left along lanes to reach our next B&B at Saracen’s Head, Pipwell Manor. This was another lovely house (but not farm) in a beautiful garden. The husband was a railway enthusiast and there was memorabilia around the garden, including station nameplates for Attleborough and other familiar places. We must be getting near home! 

Mileage: 47 Time on the move: 5hrs Average speed: 9mph Maximum speed: 18.5mph Time of arrival: 6.40pm

Saturday, 31 May

After a really lovely breakfast I took a wander round the garden. This was large but divided into a number of ‘rooms’, ideal for games of Hide & Seek and utterly fascinating. The track of a miniature railway ran round the garden, in and out of the ‘rooms’. We never saw the loco, unfortunately, and the owner had gone off early to shop in Lincoln, so we couldn’t question him about it.

We left to cycle eastwards through lanes north of the A17. This turned out to be our hottest day yet, but a strong headwind slowed our progress. We were no longer on Route 1, which goes through Wisbech, but made our way towards King’s Lynn. We had to use the A17 to cross the River Nene at Sutton Bridge, but only for a few metres. We had a pub lunch at Walpole Cross Keys, then continued on to the African Violet Centre at Terrington St Clement for tea and cakes. We crossed the River Great Ouse at South Lynn, then back on Route 1 northwards into Kings Lynn. The youth hostel did not open till 5pm so we had more tea and cakes at The Green Quay next door. At the YH we again had our own room with en suite, even a bathroom. Not many other hostellers here tonight. 

Mileage: 26 Time on the move: 3hrs Average speed: 8.3mph Maximum speed: 12mph

Sunday, 1 June

A rest day. We went to Family Communion at nearby St Margaret’s church; lots of people there as it was followed immediately by a service which the Mayor and retinue were due to attend. Then we went shopping in Sainsbury’s before returning to The Green Quay where we’d arranged to meet friend Cindy. After a light lunch we had a wander round the town. Bob and I returned to the YH soon after 4pm, let ourselves in via the keypad, and both had an afternoon nap. During the evening we got into conversation with a lone cyclist travelling round the UK for 6 months. 

Monday, 2 June

We were woken in the early hours by a violent thunderstorm. Being on the 2^nd floor, directly under the roof, it was quite frightening. I was reminded of Sheringham YH, where a staff member sleeping in a room similarly situated was thrown out of bed when the building was struck by lightning. This storm passed on without any problem, fortunately. Heavy rain continued through breakfast, but by the time we left the weather had improved. We had periods of light rain throughout the morning but not enough for us to don raingear.

We wanted to make it to our favourite eatery, the Royal Oak at Bintree, for lunch, and we made good time, through Gayton, Great Massingham, Tittleshall and Brisley. We got to the pub in time, but being Monday it was closed. The next pub we tried, at Foulsham, was closed also. Evidently Monday is not a good day to find a pub lunch – something we’ll have to remember in future. Eventually we arrived at Reepham Station where, even as late as 2.30pm, we were served with soup, rolls and lovely salads. What rel